Tips and Techniques Archive PDF Print E-mail
Written by IPCA Webmaster   
Friday, 02 March 2007 15:22

Following is an archive of polymer clay tips and techniques submitted by our members. Do you have a handy tip or technique that you'd like to share? Submit it to the site and see yourself published on the world wide web!

Tips:

All tips have been submitted by NPCG Members, based on their own claying experience. If you find an inaccurate or inappropriate tip on this page, please contact the Webmaster to have it corrected or removed.

Name: C. Ann Ross
Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
url: http://www.cannross.com
Date: May 29, 2006

When creating a "Cane Library" (c)2005 C. Ann Ross remember to construct canes of the same brand as each brand has their own properties. Reducing canes will have less problems if you use this tip ;)))

Create a polymer clay "cane library" of basic leaves, jellyrolls, banners, flowers, etc. so that when you want to start a project using canes you are ready "to go for it" instead of spending time creating canes first. Use an array of colors that blend, contrast, and are in different "color ways" so that you have a wide range to choose from for your next exciting idea!


Name: Gayle Thompson
Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
url: http://www.got-clay.com
Date: May 08, 2006

Keep a bottle of 'cheap' hand cream on your work table. Use it to remove clay from your hands - and keeps them soft, too! Simply rub into your hands and wipe with a paper towel.



Name: Lee Radtke
Email: lradtke1@Comcast. net
url: http://www.
Date: December 06, 2005

Friendly Plastic makes their product available in pellet form. This can be poured into hot water and becomes maleable. You can create tools for texturing or for sculpting by shaping them with your hands or pressing them against a textured surface. When cool, you have a specialized plastic tool to use. At any time, you can put it back in hot water and reshape or modify it.

When creating your own tools, make the handles unique rather than matched in design. It is more efficient to select the tool you need without looking at the working end.


Name: pattyspolymer
Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
url: http://www.clay-essentials.com
Date: December 05, 2005

Always use a separate thermometer that you can buy at most grocery stores to calibrate your oven. Very few ovens have temperatures that actually match what the dial says. Use your thermometer every time and pre-heat the oven just to make sure it is working properly. Then bake for the recommended time and temperature, not longer at a lower temperature. Doesn't completely cure the clay.

 


Name: Patty Barnes
Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
url: http://www.clay-essentials.com
Date: December 05, 2005

Use water as a release for texture sheets, molds and cutters as long as you are using Premo, Sculpey III, Kato but not with Fimo or Fimo soft as they tend to get sticky. Other good releases are PearlEx, rubber stamp inks and of course, plain cornstarch that you cook with.



Name: Laurel Nevans
Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
url: http://www.artistcrafts.com
Date: December 05, 2005

I like to wipe my blade with an alcohol pad (like the one a Doctor wipes your arm with before giving you a shot.) I do not "dry" the blade before making my slice. I find it reduces drag and helps me get a thinner slice. I especially find it helpful when working with a mokume gane block. (Since alcohol dissolves raw PC, I'm probably disolving a micro-layer of the clay as I draw my blade through the cane.) I keep the alcohol pad in a baggie between slices to help keep it from drying out.

I like to wrap old canes in plastic wrap, then stick them in my bra while I condition my base clay. (Sticking the cane in your sock will also work.) This warms the cane and helps to make it workable. I then like to "whack" the cane before slicing.

Future Floor Wax is known by several different names outside of the US. In Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, and Panama but NOT Mexico you can find Future's cousin under the name "Klaro". In the Netherlands it is known as "Pronto Wax for wooden floors" with a brown cap or "Parket Plus". In the United Kingdom and New Zealand it is known as Klear", "Krystal Klear" or "Johnson's One and All". In France and Belgium it is "Klir" and comes in a white plastic canister with a red square cap. In Belgium and the Netherlands Johnson's "Klir" is now being packaged under a new nametag - Johnson's "Sols Plus" and as "Vloer Plus" It is the same product just new labeling. In Germany you can find a substitute for this product under the name "Erdal Gl‰nzer" or "Aldi Stodil". In Portugal Future is sold under the "Pronto Cera AcrÌlica" which means literaly "done acrylic wax". This can be found in most mini markets and local grociery stores. Xtracolour is distributing a product marked as 'Acrylic Gloss Clear' that smells suspiciously like Future Floor Wax. In Japan and the Philippines it is known as "Johnson's Wipe and Shine". In Argentina it is GloCot.
 

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